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Posted By Troysus |
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Drumming Tips:
first timers...
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if you've just started playing drums and are having trouble keeping time and learning how to keep time, don't sweat. some people put on headphones and just rock out to what ever it is they are listening. what i recommend is that you find a good friend that plays guitar, they don't have to be good enough either. sit down and learn together. i'm sure your first few songs may sound like a poo poo platter, but it only gets better. i know this from experience. that's how i got started in drumming. we sucked and still do, i guess. i was once called the hardest working man in CPR (Cincinnati Punk Rock) and prbly still am. i never took lessons. i tried, but it was like trying to teach a walnut tree to circle pit. what it all boils down to is you, a friend with a guitar, a bag of weed, and a place to jam. rock on kiddies!!! |
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Posted By Zoe |
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Drumming Tips:
Can I Get A few Tips??
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So i've only been drumming for a couple of months had 5 or so lessons but am having trouble listening to songs then trying to play them. Can anyone give me any tips on this? Also does anyone know away to stop getting blisters from playing? I've heard sticks with grip just hurt more. Please email me if u have any tips. |
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Posted By Emzie |
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Drumming Tips:
o.O
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hey hey take this drumming tip if u ever feel like ur gonna go off beat or u cant figure out why something dont feel right just start head banging up and down slowly so that u no what kinda rhythm ur at and then when u ok agen u go bak to ur style sequence. trust me it allways works. |
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Posted By george |
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Drumming Tips:
the basics of drumming
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Welcome!
Setting up your drum set for the first time often leads to questions like, "Am I setting them up correctly?" or "Am I tuning them correctly?" This on-line assembly manual will answer these questions and more. We'll show you step-by-step how to set up a Pearl ELX Export Select 5 piece set; however the principles apply to all sets regardless of brand.
Drums are easy to start but very difficult to master so don't get discouraged. Find a teacher, practice and you'll get years of enjoyment from them.
One other thing—drums and music are about having fun. That's what your set is all about! Enjoy…
The Drums in This Set
A typical drum set consists of five drums: 14" snare drum, 22" bass drum, 16" floor tom, and 12" and 13" rack toms (also called rack toms or toms).
Pearl uses the traditional method of describing drum sizes: depth followed by diameter. Thus, a 10"x12" tom is 10" deep and 12" in diameter; a 6 1/2"x14" snare drum is 6 1/2" deep and 14" in diameter; and so on. Some companies, however, prefer to reverse these dimensions.
Before We Start
The bass drum and floor tom need to be assembled. Locate the drum key and the parts needed: shells, heads, rims and hoops, tension rods, and claws. Choose a clean, open area to do the assembly and you're ready to go!
Floor Tom Assembly
Stand the floor tom shell vertically with the leg brackets toward the floor.
Place the drumhead stamped Pearl "ProTone" onto the top bearing edge as shown above.
Fit the rim onto the head so it surrounds he metal ring around the head. Align the ears (the flanges with holes) over the lugs as shown
Insert the tension rods through the holes in the ears and thread them into the swivel nuts. Finger tighten the rods for now; we'll discuss tuning later.
Turn the drum over and do the other side.
When done, insert the floor tom legs into the leg brackets and secure them about halfway up.
Note: The top drum head should say Pearl ProTone and the bottom should say "Pearl." If the heads are reversed, switch them now before continuing. The head marked Pearl ProTone is a batter head and is designed to be hit with sticks. The bottom "Pearl" head is thinner and designed for resonance hence it is called a resonating head.
Note: On Forum sets, the top head is stamped "Pearl." The bottom head is unmarked.
Bass Drum Assembly
The bass drum is assembled similarly to the floor tom. Lay the bass drum on its back with the spurs facing upward.
Place the front head, with the large Pearl logo, onto the front bearing edge as shown above.
Next, place the bass drum hoop onto the ring surrounding the head.
Attach the claws onto the hoop and thread the tension rods into the swivel nuts in each lug. Finger tighten the rods for now. Turn the drum over and do the other side with the remaining bass drum head.
Note: ProTone bass drum heads, standard on Export and Export Select, feature built-in muffler rings for great sound virtually "out-of-the-box." However, if you require more muffling, please visit your local authorized Pearl dealer to purchase mufflers that achieve the desired sound.
Note: Forum bass drum heads do not have built-in muffling rings.
Bass Drum Spurs
Set the spurs toward the front of the bass drum as shown above.
Next, extend the spur rods so that they are equal in length and the front of the bass drum is about an inch off the floor.
Note: Once set, you don't have to adjust the length of the spur rods again (unless you want to). To fold the legs, face the spurs backwards and parallel to the tension lugs.
You have a choice of rubber or spike tips to help keep the bass drum from sliding. To expose the spikes, loosen the locking nut (the round metal nut with knurled edges) and turn it and the rubber tip clockwise. Counter-turn the locking nut and rubber tip against each other to prevent the rubber tip from loosening.
Caution: For safety, keep the spikes covered by the rubber tips when transporting the bass drum.
Warning: The spike tips can cause damage to floor surfaces. When using the spike tip option, use a rug or carpet of sufficient thickness to protect the floor
Bass Drum Pedal Assembly, Attachment & Adjustment Assembly
The pedal is shipped without the spring and beater attached.
To attach the spring, pull the triangle - with the spring attached - over and into the notch in the cam roller.
Insert the beater shaft into the beater link and tighten the key bolt with your drum key. For now, set the beater so that about 1/4" of the beater shaft is visible at the bottom of the beater link. By moving the beater up or down in minute increments, you can "fine-tune" the feel of the pedal to your preference.
Pedal Attachment
If your bass drum has metal hoops, adhere the self-stick rubber pad into the channel of the back hoop where the pedal attaches.
Lift the backside of the bass drum and slide the pedal onto the bass drum hoop. If necessary, loosen the T-bolt on the hoop clamp to widen the opening. Center the pedal so that it sits squarely on the floor. Tighten the hoop clamp securely.
Tighten clockwise to clamp the pedal to the bass drum hoop.
Spring Adjustment
Loosen the top lock nut (A) and adjust the spring tension nut (B) until the spring tension feels comfortable to you. Tighten nut (A) to keep this setting.
Tom Holders: Attachment & Adjustment
Secure the tom holders into the bass bracket as shown above.
Set the short arms at approximately 90° to the long arms as shown above.
Export Select mounted toms feature the I.S.S., Integrated Suspension System for improved resonance and sustain. To attach the I.S.S., hook the claws of the I.S.S. bracket onto the top hoop of each tom.
Note: The mounting brackets on Export and Forum mounted toms are attached directly to the shell.
Tighten the two outside claws then the center claw.
Insert the tom holder arm into the tom bracket as shown. If necessary, loosen the wing nut on the tom bracket to allow the tom arm to fit. Tighten the wing nut on the tom bracket to secure the tom. Repeat with the other tom.
Each tom holder has two Stop-Locks: one each on the long and short arms. The photo above shows the Stop-Lock fitted to the tom bracket. When properly attached, the Stop-Lock fits flush against and into the slot in the bracket.
For now, "ball park" the height, tilt, and closeness of the toms·you'll "fine-adjust" these later.
Note: Right-handed drummers usually set up the smaller of the mounted toms to the left. However, there's no right or wrong; after all, it's your kit!
Snare Stand Assembly & Adjustment
The snare stand is shipped in two parts: the base and basket section.
To assemble the base, open the legs to form a stable tripod and tighten the wing bolt as shown above.
Unfold the basket section as shown above.
Insert the post of the basket into the base as shown above·set the height about halfway.
Open the arms of the basket and adjust the butterfly nut (if necessary) to accommodate the snare drum. Place the snare drum into the basket.
Tighten the butterfly nut as shown until the snare drum is snug.
Note: Do not over-tighten·overtightening can choke the sound and/or cause damage to the snare drum.
Cymbal Stand Assembly
The cymbal stand is shipped in three parts: the base, middle, and top sections.
Extend the legs of the base to form a stable tripod and tighten the wing bolt.
Insert the middle tube into the base and secure.
Insert the top tube into the middle tube and secure. Set each tube about halfway up for now.
Attaching Cymbals
Set the cymbal tilter vertically as shown above.
Remove the wing nut and the upper of the two felt washers from the tilter post.
Slip the tilter post through the hole in the bell of the cymbal as shown and rest the cymbal on the bottom felt washer.
Replace the felt washer and wing nut as shown. Allow the cymbal to move freely for best sound. Adjust the angle of the cymbal tilter to your preference.
Note: The tilter post is equipped with a plastic sleeve to protect the cymbal from metal-to-metal contact. Check the condition of the plastic sleeve occasionally for signs of wear. If worn, replace it with genuine Pearl replacement part number NP-69/2.
Note: Three-section cymbal stands are standard on Export and Export Select. Forum cymbal stands feature two-sections.
Boom Stand Assembly
1998 Export and Export Select sets include a boom cymbal stand. Assemble the boom stand in the same manner as the cymbal stand. The boom arm can be positioned to virtually any angle for perfect cymbal placement. The boom arm is equipped with a Stop-Lock to prevent slippage and to allow quick and repeatable set-ups.
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the basics of drumming (part 2)
Current mood: busy
Category: Music
Hi-Hat Assembly
The hi-hat is shipped in three parts: the base, upper tube, and pull rod with clutch.
To assemble the base, first remove the rubber band from the radius rods as shown.
Then insert the bent ends into the holes in the hi-hat frame.
Extend the legs to form a stable tripod with the hi-hat frame just touching the floor - the hi-hat should feel solid without rocking.
Thread the pull rod securely into the receiver in the base section of the hi-hat stand.
Remove the clutch and slide the upper tube over the pull rod and into the base. Set the upper tube about halfway up.
Hi-hat Cymbal Attachment and Adjustment
Insert the pull rod through the hole in the heavier of the two hi-hat cymbals (sometimes marked: Bottom). Rest the cymbal, bell side down, on the felt washer on the seat cup.
Remove the metal lock nut and one of the felt washers from the clutch.
Slip the clutch through the hole in the top cymbal.
Replace the felt washer and metal lock nut.
Note: If you have difficulty attaching the lock nut, flip it over and try again·it threads only from one side.
Slip the clutch (with the top cymbal attached) onto the pull rod.
Space the cymbals about an inch apart÷tighten the wing screw securely.
The clutch features two round lock nuts that adjust the amount of "play" of the top cymbal. To adjust, loosen the top lock nut and adjust the bottom lock nut until the desired "play" is achieved. Counter-turn the lock nuts to secure this setting.
In the event that the cymbals "air-lock" while playing, an adjustment screw under the bottom cymbal is provided. "Air-lock" happens when the cymbals trap air inside...you'll know when this happens÷the cymbals don't make any sound. To eliminate "air-lock" simply tilt the bottom cymbal with the adjustment screw and you're back in business.
Adjust the spring tension of the hi-hat to your preference. On Export and Export Select hi-hats, this is done by a slider on the base section.
Note: The springs on Forum hi-hat stands are not adjustable.
The legs on your hi-hat stand can be rotated to accommodate double pedals as shown above.
Note: Forum Series hi-hats do not have swivel legs.
The Completed Drum Set
Arrange your set to look like the completed set shown above. If you're left handed, reverse the drums from right to left.
If you don't already own a drum throne, purchase one. You'll be spending hours at your set so select a throne that is sturdy and comfortable. Set the height of the throne so that it carries most of your weight. This'll make you "light" on your feet so you can play your pedals with maximum speed and agility. Position the throne so you can reach the bass pedal comfortably.
Place the snare drum in front of you and adjust the height to a comfortable level. You can play the snare drum tilted (as shown above) or flat. Experiment with different tilt positions to discover which works best for you.
Position the hi-hat next to the snare drum within easy reach of your other foot. Your legs should feel relaxed, not too close and not too far apart. Most of all, you should feel balanced. Adjust the height of the hi-hat cymbals so that they can be reached comfortably.
Adjust the height, tilt, and closeness of the 12" tom so that it butts up against (but doesn't touch) the snare drum. Position the 13" tom beside the 12" tom. Set the floor tom level to or slightly lower than the snare drum. Arrange the toms compactly so that you can move from drum to drum quickly and easily. When everything is comfortably positioned, tighten all Stop-Locks securely.
Position your cymbals where they can be reached easily and don't get in the way of your drums.
Note: The above instructions are only suggestions. Again, there's no right or wrong way to set up drums·what matters is how the drums are set for you!
Tuning Your Set
Unlike guitars or pianos, drums can be tuned any way you want! However, to sound their best, they need to be tuned carefully. Follow the instructions below and you'll have great sounding drums in no time!
1) Tune each head evenly: Choose any drum (other than the snare drum...we'll save it for last) and loosen all of the tuning rods on one side then retighten them finger tight. Tighten each rod 1/2 turn using the criss-cross sequence shown below.
Repeat this procedure until the drumhead is free of wrinkles and a tone is produced. Tap the head next to each tension rod as shown and listen to the sound.
If the sounds you hear are the same note or pitch all the way around, you're in luck÷this is what you want! However, chances are you won't be this lucky and the sounds will be "high" at some tension rods and "low" at others. Our goal is to get them to be the same note all around·here's how we do it. At the places where the pitches were "high," loosen the rods by 1/8 turn. Where the pitches were "low," tighten the rods by 1/8 turn. Again, tap the head at each tension rod and note your progress. Continue this procedure until the head has the same pitch all around, or as drummers say, "is in tune with itself."
Turn the drum over and repeat the entire process on the other head.
2) Tune the heads to each other: Next we need to tune the top and bottom heads relative to each other.
Note: There are three ways that this can be done: 1) the top and bottom heads can be tuned to the same pitch; 2) the top head can be tuned higher than the bottom; or 3) the top head tuned can be tuned lower than the bottom. There's no right or wrong method·experiment to see which sounds best to you.
For now, we're going to tune the top and bottom heads to the same note. Select a drum and tap the top and bottom heads to determine which is higher. If the pitches are the same, you're in luck÷go to the next drum. If they're different, do the following: lower the pitch of the "high" head and raise the pitch of the "low" one*. Repeat this procedure until the top and bottom heads are tuned to the same pitch. Move on to the next drum.
*Once a head is in tune with itself, it can be tuned higher or lower by tightening or loosening each tension rod by the same amount. Most of the time, the head will remain in tune with itself; however, if it should change, simply fine-tune using the tuning procedure we practiced above.
3) Tune the drums to each other: You're now ready to tune the whole set. The smallest diameter drums are tuned the highest; the largest diameters, the lowest. Many drummers like to tune their toms a 4th apart. If you want to try this tuning, sing the first two notes of the wedding march, "Here Comes the Bride." "Here" and "Comes" are a 4th apart. Use these notes as a guide.
If you prefer the "free-form" method of tuning your drum, go right ahead·as mentioned before, there's no right or wrong notes to tune drums. However, every drum has a range of pitches where it sounds best. Tune it too high and it'll sound "choked;" tune it too low and it'll sound "flappy." Experiment until you find the notes that work for you.
Tuning and Adjusting the Snare Drum
For most applications, tune the bottom head (called the snare head) tighter than the top head. This keeps the sound crisp and minimizes buzz from the snares (the snares are the wires attached to the bottom of the snare drum).
The snares are turned on and off by the strainer. The knob on the strainer controls the tension of the snares which controls the degree of "crispness" of the sound. To adjust the tension, flip the strainer to the "on" position and loosen the knob until the snares begin to "rattle." While tapping the batter head, slowly tighten the knob until the desired "crispness" is achieved.
Note: Over-tightening the snares will choke the sound and shorten the life of the snares.
Note: The snare drum that came with your set is designed for general purpose use. However, just as there are specialized clubs for playing golf, there are specialized snare drums. Therefore, if you're looking for a different sound, please visit your local Pearl dealer to check out the many specialty snare drums that Pearl and others have to offer
How to Hold the Sticks
There are two basic stick grips: matched grip and traditional grip. To choose the best grip for you, it's best to study with a qualified drum teacher. Ask your authorized Pearl dealer to recommend teachers in your area.
Matched grips are shown above. As the name implies, the sticks are held similarly or "matched." Grip each stick between the thumb and first finger to form a pivot. (The pivot point should be about two thirds from the tip of the stick). Complete the grip by lightly gripping the remaining fingers around the sticks as shown.
The traditional grip is shown above. The traditional grip was developed for marching but is still popular with many drumset players. The left stick is cradled in the "V" formed between the thumb and first finger and rests on the fourth finger as shown. The thumb and first finger surround and "trap" the stick to prevent it from flying out of your hand. The middle finger lightly presses against the stick and acts as a guide. The right stick is held in a matched grip.
Cymbals
Cymbals come in a variety of thickness, sizes, shapes, and styles. Ride cymbals and hi-hats are primarily time keepers. Crashes, splashes, and Chinese cymbals are primarily used for "punctuation."
A basic set of cymbals typically includes a 20" to 22" ride; 16" to 18" crash; and a pair of 13" or 14" hi-hats. There's no right or wrong selection of cymbals - what sounds good to you is what counts.
Proper Cymbal Playing Techniques
Give your cymbals "breathing room." Bolting down the wing nut restricts the sound and can cause damage to the cymbals. Replace worn plastic sleeves and felt washers on the cymbal posts to prevent damage to your cymbals.
Avoid extreme angles when positioning your cymbals. Extreme angles not only restricts the movement and diminishes the response of your cymbals, but also puts excess pressure on the bell (cup) and can damage your cymbals.
Avoid direct hits to the edge of the cymbal·this may result in damage, especially to thinner cymbals. Strike cymbals, especially splash, crash, and Chinese models, with quick glancing blows to obtain optimum sound response while minimizing the possibility of damage.
Hi-hats should be loose and slightly tilted. This eliminates air lock and keeps the sound crisp and consistent.
It's Your Kit: All of the above examples are for illustrative purposes. As you learn more about your drums, you'll find that there is no right or wrong way to do anything. What matters is what works best for you! Enjoy
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Posted By minus_human |
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Drumming Tips:
using a double pedal
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the best way for getting speed out of your feet on a double foot pedal is to sit as low as you can on your stool remember drums are not just for christmas |
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Posted By Pat Richard |
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Drumming Tips:
('',)
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when your pLaying drums, Hit it hard! |
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